Maximizing your harvests in both spring and fall, especially in northern climates with short growing seasons, requires smart planning and efficient use of space. By focusing on cool-season crops and utilizing techniques like succession planting, frost protection, and soil enrichment, you can enjoy larger, more plentiful harvests in both seasons. In this blog post, we’ll share tips on how to boost your spring and fall yields, helping you make the most of your limited garden space.
Bigger Harvests in Spring
Growing a bountiful spring harvest in a limited space, particularly in a northern climate zone with cold winters, can be challenging. However, with proper planning and management, it's still possible to get maximum harvest from such spaces. In this article, we'll discuss how to achieve this goal, including when to plant, what to plant, how to plant, when to harvest, and how to protect your plants from frost during climate change temperature surprises.
Getting maximum harvest from limited space in a northern climate zone with cold winters requires careful planning and management. Starting seeds indoors, choosing the right crops, maximizing available space, timing your harvests, and protecting your plants from frost are all essential steps to ensure a bountiful spring harvest. With these tips, you can enjoy fresh, homegrown produce even in challenging growing conditions.
When to plant: In northern climate zones, the ground is often frozen until late April or early May. Thus, it's essential to start your seeds indoors under grow lights in late winter or early spring to ensure that your plants will be ready to be transplanted outdoors when the ground thaws. There are also ways to start seeds outdoors like “cold frames” and special “winter sowing” milk jugs. See the chapter on “winter sowing” for more details on method and timing. Depending on the specific plant, you can start seeds indoors anywhere from 4-12 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area.
What to plant: For spring harvests in limited spaces, you should choose plants that grow quickly, produce a lot of food, and are cold-tolerant. Some examples of suitable crops include leafy greens like spinach, lettuce, and kale; root vegetables like carrots, beets, and radishes; and cool-season herbs like parsley, chives, and cilantro. Since spinach is especially cold hardy seeds can be direct sowed in the bed in November in cold climates. It will germinate in the spring
How to plant: In limited spaces, it's essential to maximize the use of available space. You can do this by planting in containers or raised beds, using vertical space, or interplanting. Planting in containers and raised beds allows for more control over soil quality and drainage, while vertical space can be utilized by growing crops on trellises, fences, or walls. Interplanting involves planting multiple crops in the same space, allowing for more efficient use of the area.
When to harvest: The timing of your harvest will depend on the specific crop you're growing, but generally, it's best to harvest leafy greens when they reach full size, But pick them before they “bolt” (when the plant begins to flower) since the taste often comes bitter. Root vegetables can be harvested when they reach maturity, usually between 2-3 months after planting, while herbs can be harvested continually throughout the season.
Protecting from frost: In northern climate zones, unexpected frosts can damage or kill crops that are not cold-tolerant. To protect your plants from frost, you can cover them with blankets or tarps, use “row cover” fabric, or bring potted plants indoors during cold snaps. You can also choose cold-hardy varieties of plants that are less susceptible to frost damage. See our blog post Installing Hoops on Raised Beds.
Bigger Harvests in Fall
While focusing on spring harvests is key, maximizing your fall harvests can directly impact your spring production. Preparing your garden for a successful fall harvest allows your soil to rest, regenerate, and replenish nutrients needed for the next growing season. Here are some tips for making the most of your fall garden to ensure larger, healthier harvests come spring:
Extend the Growing Season: In northern climates, the frost-free growing season can often feel too short. However, there are several ways to extend this period. Consider using row covers, cloches, or even cold frames to protect your fall crops from the first frost. These simple structures trap warmth and create a micro-climate that allows for continued growth even as temperatures drop. Adding a layer of mulch around plants also helps retain warmth and moisture, further protecting them from the chill.
Focus on Late-Season Crops: Choosing crops that thrive in cooler temperatures will help you make the most of your fall harvests. Plant hardy vegetables such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kale, and leeks, all of which improve in flavor after a frost. Root vegetables like carrots and parsnips can be left in the ground through the fall, allowing them to mature even as the weather cools. Certain herbs, like thyme and sage, are also very frost-tolerant and can continue growing into late fall, offering fresh seasoning for your winter dishes.
Harvest at the Right Time: To optimize your fall harvest, timing is crucial. For crops like root vegetables, waiting until after the first frost often results in sweeter flavors. For leafy greens, harvest before the weather turns too cold, as they can become bitter after frost. Early harvesting also prevents overcrowding, allowing your crops to continue growing into the cooler months. When you harvest, leave some of the root systems intact—many root crops can regrow in the fall for a second harvest, offering more food in the months ahead.
Compost and Feed the Soil: Fall is an ideal time to replenish the soil after a long growing season. Adding organic matter such as compost or well-aged manure ensures that your soil is rich with the nutrients needed for an abundant spring harvest. Mix this compost into your raised beds or garden beds so that it can break down over the winter, creating nutrient-rich soil for the upcoming planting season. Worm castings, a rich source of nutrients, are also great for improving soil quality and promoting healthy root growth for next spring.
Plan for Succession Planting: To make the most of your space, use the fall season for succession planting. As early crops are harvested, new crops can be planted in their place. Fast-growing vegetables like radishes, turnips, and quick-maturing greens such as arugula or mustard greens can still be grown in the late summer or early fall and harvested before the first frost. This technique allows you to grow multiple crops in the same area, increasing your overall yield.
Prepare for Spring: Preparing for spring begins in the fall. Use the cooler months to clean, tidy, and reset your garden, which will make planting easier come spring. You can also plan for new crops that will be ready for early spring, such as peas and onions, by setting up your raised beds, containers, or seed-starting area. Planting cover crops like clover or vetch during the fall helps prevent soil erosion, fix nitrogen, and add organic material, creating a healthy, thriving environment for your spring crops.
By increasing your fall harvests, you ensure a more abundant and healthier spring harvest. Maximizing your garden’s potential during the colder months will set you up for a season of bountiful produce, helping you grow fresh, flavorful food even when space is limited.
Spring Planting Step-by-Step
The basics with links to more posts:
• Start planting in March: In Zone 5 and 6, March is an excellent time to plant cold-hardy vegetables that can tolerate the cool temperatures of early spring. View our blog post on Climate Zones.
• Spread compost in spring and fall: Spread 2-inch layer of our microbe rich compost on your existing beds to replenish microbes and nutrients. Read our blog post on Compost, Microbes and Soil Science.
• Plant with worm castings: Use our top quality worm castings fertilizer, also called ”vermicompost” to plant seeds and seedlings. Explore more with our article Worm Casting Fertilizer and Microorganisms.
• Planting seeds and seedlings: View our blog posts on Planting for Beginners, Next Level Planting, Seed Starting Indoors, Winter Sowing outdoors.
• Biodiversity planting: Cultivating a variety of different plant species within a given area, aiming to create a diverse ecosystem that supports a wider range of wildlife, including pollinators, insects, and birds, by providing food and shelter throughout the growing season. View our blog post on Biodiversity
• Planting seedlings and seeds: View our blog posts on planting using
No need to rotate crops when you practice biodiversity. Rotation is for mono culture planting (same crops in one field or one bed).
Succession Planting: Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. View our blog post on Succession Planting.
Maximize space: Use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. View our blog post on Trellises.
Mulch early: Use straw or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds after seedlings are 3 inches tall. If you use both, put the straw on top.Try not to mix straw with soil/compost since it dilutes the compost nutrients. Don’t use hay or anything that contains weed seeds. View our blog post on Moisture and Mulch.
Pest alert Swede Midge: Protect from Swede Midge fly which attacks only Brassica crops like broccoli, collards, cabbage, kale, Brussel sprouts. We got decent harvests from kale and collards last year by protecting our beds with bug netting, and harvesting all big leaves quickly. Wash the leaves well. Swede Midge is a recent invasive pest in the Northeast and Midwest.View blog post on Swede Midge fly.
Pest alert Club Root disease: We stopped growing broccoli altogether because protection from Club Root disease needs a large garden and takes to much time and planning. Watch this video on club root disease.
Cold tolerant veggies:
All of these can be direct-seeded outdoors as soon as the soil is workable and above freezing. If you want a head start, you can start some of these indoors and transplant them in mid to late March.
Leafy Greens:
• Lettuce (Romaine, Butterhead, Leaf varieties)
• Spinach (doesn’t transplant well, direct seed in November)
• Swiss Chard
• Arugula
• Endive
• Radicchio
Root Vegetables:
• Carrots
• Beets
• Parsnips
• Radishes
• Turnips (not Brassica but closely related)
• Salsify
Alliums (Onion Family):
• Onions (sets or seeds)
• Shallots
• Garlic (if not already planted in fall)
• Leeks (start indoors or plant young starts)
Legumes:
• Peas (snap peas, shelling peas, snow peas)
• Fava Beans
Herbs:
• Cilantro
• Parsley
• Chervil
Planting tips for early spring veggies
Since March in Zone 6 can still have frost, it's best to focus on cold-hardy vegetables that tolerate chilly soil. Here are some tips for direct seeding and transplanting:
1. Soil preparation
Fill new raised beds or in-ground beds with our microbe-rich compost
Cover the existing beds with 2 inches of our microbe-rich compost.
Make sure the soil is workable (not too wet or frozen). If it crumbles in your hand and isn’t sticky, it’s good to go.
Use “row cover” light-weight white fabric to warm up the soil faster and provide a slight frost buffer.
2. Direct-seeding cold-hardy vegetables (best for March)
These seeds can go directly in the ground when soil reaches 35–40°F:
Peas (Trellis them to save space)
Spinach (best to direct seed in November, can also sow every 2 weeks in spring for continued harvest)
Carrots (Thin seedlings to avoid crowding)
Beets (Soak seeds overnight for better germination)
Radishes (Quick-growing; ready in 25-30 days)
Parsnips (Long germination time; sow with radishes as a marker)
Salsify (A lesser-known root vegetable; plant deep)
3. Transplanting young plants
Certain cold-hardy plants do better when started indoors and transplanted out in early spring. A quick alternative is to buy seedlings. “Winter sowing” using clear plastic milk jugs is also an option:
Lettuce (Start indoors 3-4 weeks before planting out)
Swiss Chard (Tolerates cold but grows faster from transplants)
Leeks (Need a long season, so start early indoors)
Onions (Plant sets or seedlings rather than seeds for an earlier harvest)
Succession planting for a continuous harvest
Instead of planting everything at once, stagger your plantings for a continuous supply of fresh vegetables.
1. Quick-growing crops for succession planting
Radishes – Every 10-14 days (harvests in 25-30 days)
Spinach – Every 2 weeks (harvest young leaves continuously)
Lettuce – Every 2-3 weeks (mix different varieties for variety)
Cilantro & Parsley – Every 3 weeks (bolt-resistant varieties last longer)
2. Slow-growing crops that can be inter-cropped
Carrots & Radishes – Plant together; radishes sprout first and loosen the soil for carrots.
Beets & Lettuce – Beets take longer; lettuce matures quickly between rows.
Peas & Spinach – Spinach can grow underneath peas before they take off.
3. Relay planting strategy
Once an early crop is harvested, immediately replant with something that can take its place:
March: Radishes → Follow with carrots or bush beans (after frost risk)
March: Peas → Follow with cucumbers or summer squash
March-April: Spinach → Follow with basil or peppers in late spring
March-April: Lettuce: Follow with warm-season greens (Malabar spinach
Early spring planting calendar (March-May)
This early spring calendar for Zone 6 outlines when to direct sow (DS), transplant (TP), or start seeds indoors (IN) for your early spring vegetables. Check the calendar for when to transplant purchased seedlings. Start Indoors (IN) for “Succession Crops” – more lettuce, radishes, cilantro, spinach for future plantings.
March planting
March soil is workable, but it’s still cold, and there is some frost risk.
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
Peas (Sugar snap, shelling, snow) – Use trellises for vertical growth.
Spinach – Best germination at 35–45°F soil temp.
Carrots – Cover with burlap to maintain moisture.
Beets – Soak seeds overnight for faster sprouting.
Radishes – Successive plantings every 10-14 days.
Parsnips – Takes 14–21 days to germinate, plant in loose soil.
Salsify – Long season crop, plant deep.
Transplant (TP) outdoors.
“Harden off” first. Gradually expose young plants grown indoors to outdoor conditions like sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations.
Lettuce – Choose cold-hardy varieties like 'Winter Density.'
Swiss Chard – Can tolerate frost but grows faster if started indoors.
Leeks – Space 6 inches apart for full-size bulbs.
Start indoors (IN) for later transplanting:
Celery – Needs 10-12 weeks indoors before transplant.
Parsley & Cilantro – Start now and succession plant every 3 weeks.
April planting
It’s still cool but warming with moderate frost risk.
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
More lettuce, spinach, radishes, carrots, beets – Continue succession planting.
Green onions (scallions) – Can be grown densely.
Fava Beans – Tolerate cool weather well.
Transplant (TP) outdoors:
Swiss Chard – If not already planted in March.
Leeks, onions, and celery – After hardening off.
Start indoors (IN) for warm season crops:
Malabar Spinach (heat-loving alternative to spinach)
Basil, Dill, and other tender herbs – Start for later transplant.
May planting
Frost risk decreasing, more growth
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
Bush Beans – Only if soil reaches 55°F+ consistently.
New rounds of radishes, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets.
Sweet Corn – Wait until soil is 60°F+ for best germination.
Transplant (TP) outdoors:
Basil, Malabar Spinach, Summer Herbs – Once nighttime temps stay above 50°F.
Celery & Parsley – Need regular watering.
Companion planting guide
Companion planting boosts plant health, repels pests, and enhances yields. Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. Maximize space – use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. Here’s how to pair your early spring crops:
Good companion pairings
• Carrots + Onions/Leeks – Onions repel carrot rust flies.
• Peas + Spinach – Peas provide shade for spinach in warming months.
• Beets + Lettuce – Lettuce fills gaps between slow-growing beets.
• Radishes + Carrots – Radishes loosen soil for slow-sprouting carrots.
• Lettuce + Cilantro – Cilantro helps deter aphids.
• Parsley + Carrots – Encourages beneficial insects like hoverflies.
• Peas + Mint – Mint deters aphids (but plant mint in containers!).
Avoid these pairings
• Carrots + Dill – Dill can stunt carrot growth.
• Peas + Onions – Onions inhibit pea growth.
• Beets + Pole Beans – Compete for nutrients.
• Fennel + Any Veggies – Fennel secretes chemicals that stop growth.
Happy Gardening!
By following the Deep Roots Project’s transformational gardening methods through the seasons, you will create a thriving, nutrient-rich garden that supports both your plants and the soil. See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title.
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