Root Veggie Growing Tips
Beets, carrots and radishes
Growing Beets
The wonderful thing about beets is that they can be grown all season long— spring, summer and fall. They are some of the hardiest and most cold/heat tolerant of any vegetable. With an added bonus: both the roots and leaves are edible!
Temperature & planting schedule. Beets are fun to grow because they are heat tolerant, cold tolerant and grow in almost any weather in Zone 5. As long as they’re planted in an area that gets full sun, they will grow in temperatures anywhere between 50° and 85°f. Above 100° F and beets will grow quickly and flower before the root is fully developed. When succession planting seeds outdoors, one or 2 weeks apart, you can harvest beets gradually all season long.
Loose fluffy soil helps root development, allows the taproot to go deep and supports uniform root shape. But they will still grow in harder clay soil but will produce a smaller root. In fact, the beet will loosen up and aerate your soil. Mix in lots of nutrient dense compost at the start of the season. Misshapen beets result when the soil is too hard and is pressing in around the root. Additionally, beets prefer sandy, lightweight soil that drains well.
pH Levels: Tolerant to any soil with a ph from 5.5 to 8, no lower or higher. Compost is a natural pH buffer, so if you notice your soil is leaning too acidic or alkaline simply add more compost to even out the acidity. Beets don’t like acidic soil and may perform poorly in soil with a 5.5 or less pH rating. Take a soil sample before planting to ensure that you don’t need to amend the soil with lime.
Sun. Beets prefer full sun – 6 to 8 hours – but more sun is better. They will tolerate at least five hours of sun a day.
Water frequently. Apply at least 1 inch of water per week. Tilling in compost to soil will increase water retention and maintain even moisture. Beets will either be tough without enough water or they will be too dry. If beets aren’t watered consistently they will crack once they drink up moisture, similar to how tomatoes crack. This occurs when the cell walls aren’t flexible enough because of a lack of moisture are then overwhelmed by a sudden burst of h20. Make sure to have even soil moisture to decrease chances of cracking.
Planting and thinning. A beet seed is actually a cluster of several tiny seeds. Plant 2 cluster seeds every 3 inches for high density. For less competition and bigger roots space 4” apart. You want 9 plants per square foot. Since you only want one beet in each spot thin when the seedlings are about 5 inches tall. If the soil is very loose you may be able to pull out the smaller seedling and replant it in another spot. But, most gardeners carefully pull out the smallest beet and eat it for dinner.
Fertilizing. Beets have specific needs that are different from other root crops. Beets need to grow tall leaves in order for their roots to grow properly, so they require lots of nitrogen to encourage leaf growth. The confusion is that phosphorus, not nitrogen, is normally added for root development. You don’t need a lot of phosphorus or potassium to grow beets. The plant takes up the nitrogen first into its leaves for huge leaf growth provided by the sun through photosynthesis. Then the energy moves back down into the root from the leaves. If you don’t have enough nitrogen the plant will have enough leaves to survive but won’t have energy to grow a big root. Without enough nitrogen the root becomes woody and very hard.
Always add an inch of rich compost to the top of the soil bed each time you plant a beet crop. Plus, for every 10 square feet sprinkle about a cup of a multi-purpose organic fertilizer containing Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium (N-P-K) plus trace minerals and mycorrhizae fungi. Our favorite multi-purpose fertilizers are Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer and Trifecta. This will ensure the beets also get the Phosphorus they need to grow large roots.
Harvesting: Time to harvest from seed: 50-100 days. From transplant: 35-45 days. In order to harvest throughout the season, plant beets in succession. Succession planting happens when you plant a week or two apart. This way you can harvest beets from spring to fall! Harvest leaves whenever they reach a sufficient size, though don’t over harvest leaves to make sure there’s still energy being sent to the roots. For the best quality roots, harvest when they are 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots are sweeter but can be tougher in texture. Once you start picking, you can continue for four to six weeks depending on the weather. Otherwise, plant in succession and harvest continually. A 25 foot row of beets will yield 25 to 30 pounds of produce!
Eating. Beet roots are high in sugar, and the plant is a good source of vitamins A and C. You can eat beets hot or cold, pickled or raw. Eat the leaves. The best way to overcome issues with beet roots is to provide adequate growing conditions. Even if all these conditions are met, however, beet root problems may still occur. Don’t let this sway you from enjoying your crops anyway. If all else fails and you find yourself left with small or deformed beets, you can always harvest the leafy tops for greens.
Article: “How to Grow Organic Beets”
Video: Link
Growing carrots
Video: Link
Crunchy, long, healthy, sweet carrots are perfect for backyard vegetable gardens! They provide color, flavor and nutrition to an organic gardener’s diet. But, they are fussy about their soil and temperature.
Temperature & planting schedule. This popular root vegetable performs best in cool temperatures (between 60-70˚F). Seeds may be planted as soon as your soil can be worked in early spring. Heirloom varieties are sweet, crisp and tender. Carrots take 60 to 65 days to mature.
Soil and pH: Carrots will reach perfection only when planted in deep, good-textured soil that is free of stones and debris. Grow the long varieties only if you can provide this type of soil. Choose shorter varieties if your soil is heavy or stony. You need to know soil health, soil quality and how to maintain that through the whole season. They need consistently great soil from early to late in the season. Long straight healthy carrots are tricky to grow. Choose a soft, humus-based soil with a pH level of 6.0 to 6.8. Keep the container moist and watch out for dry compost in warmer weather. Carrots need rich loose deep soil 12“ deep and rich is organic matter like compost. The taproot must extend a long way down. If the roots hit something they will bend and stay bent until harvest.
Planting: Sow carrot seed in early spring 2 weeks before your last frost date — or in fall 10 weeks before your first frost date. Sow seeds thickly in rows 1 foot apart or broadcast seeds in 1 to 1-1/2 inch wide raised beds. When tops are 1 to 2 inches high, thin individual plants to 1 to 2 inches apart. Thin again when they begin to crowd. Cover crowns that push through the soil with a layer of mulch to prevent tops from becoming green or bitter.
Watering: Intermittent watering is key. Water very deeply and let it dry out encourages roots to grow deeper and straighter. Don’t over water. Excessive nitrogen or uneven soil moisture will cause forking and split roots.
Spacing: Don’t over crowd the seeds. Spaces 2” apart which is 1” on center. Make sure you thin the seedlings. You can’t have 2 carrots growing in the same spot.
Size: For big carrots grow Danvers or Scarlet Nantes varieties. Let them grow longer to get bigger carrots. They grow more quickly when weather is colder (65 - 70º).
Fertilizing: Carrots benefit from applications of compost tea from emergence until the tops are 5 to 8 inches high. There are directions on the Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer package for making a liquid fertilizer by dissolving it in water. Like all root crops, carrots require plenty of natural fertilizer rich in potassium. Excessive nitrogen or uneven soil moisture will cause forking and split roots. Fertilize when the tops have reached 3 inches tall. Feed your plants regularly throughout the season to ensure good growth. Try using a potassium-rich liquid feed every 2 weeks or a slow-release fertilizer. Too much nitrogen causes misshapen carrots because it promotes leaf growth and not root growth. A multi-purpose slow-release granular type fertilizer with NPK, micronutrients and mycorrhizae fungi will work well, if used in moderation. Our favorites are Dr. Earth Organic 5 Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer and Trifecta.
Harvesting and storage: Do not harvest carrots until the top of the root breaks the soil surface. After you harvest carrots try a succession crop in fall. Plant spinach seeds in late summer in the same bed. Harvest at finger size for best texture and flavor, and to make harvesting easier, water before you pull them up. Extend the storage life of carrots by cutting off all but 1 inch of the leaves and stem. Place in a container of water and keep in the refrigerator. To store over winter, pack in damp sawdust and keep cool.
Insects and disease: To prevent problems with diseases and insects, do NOT plant where carrots or parsley have grown for three years (see Crop Rotation In the Home Garden)
Common pests: Rotted or dwarfed plants may be due to the carrot rust fly. The maggots of this fly are often found chewing on the roots. If your plants are stunted and the leaves are yellow, suspect nematodes. Unlike beneficial nematodes, these microscopic pests attack the roots of the plant causing galls (swelling) to develop. Protect emerging seedlings from birds, snails and slugs. If seedlings topple over, suspect damping off. Check for watery soft rot on the stem at the soil line.
Floating row cover: One of the easiest methods to protect garden crops from flying insects is the floating row cover. Simply cover loosely over seed beds to allow plenty of slack for plant growth. Garden staples or rocks can be used to secure the fabric to the ground.
Growing radishes
The radish is an edible root vegetable of the family Brassicaceae that was domesticated in Asia in pre-Roman times. Radishes are grown and consumed throughout the world, being mostly eaten raw as a crunchy salad vegetable with bite. There are numerous varieties, varying in size, flavor, color, and length of time they take to mature.
Growing radishes is the closest you can come to “instant gratification” in gardening. Radishes sprout easily, grow quickly, and are a perfect first seed to grow for new or young gardeners. Although they are easy to grow, here are some tips.
Temperature: Radishes are a cool season crop. Radishes grow best in cool weather (less than 65 degrees). Warm weather causes them to bolt and become bitter.
Sun: Radishes need plenty of sunlight. Radish plants that do not get enough sunlight may not develop a radish, only leaves.
Water: Radishes need even moisture. Regular watering is important when growing radishes. If radishes dry out, they can bolt. If radishes are too wet, they can split. Radishes need at least 6 hours of sunlight.
Soil: Radishes prefer loose soil rich in organic matter. Soil that is too high in nitrogen will produce an abundance of leaves, but no radishes.
Crop rotation: Rotate where you plant radishes. If you have grown brassicas in an area, it is best to wait 3 years before planting radishes in the same spot to prevent root maggots.
Varieties: Try different varieties of radishes. Cherry Belle radishes are one of the easiest to grow and perfect for a first-time gardener. Watermelon radishes are larger than regular radishes with a pale green exterior and a deep pink interior (thus the name). White Icicle radishes develop white roots up to 5 inches long. Rat’s Tail radishes are grown for the edible bean-like seed pods they produce.
Planting: Space radishes correctly. Plant radishes 3 inches apart and ½ inch deep, and cover seeds loosely with soil. Crowded radishes do not grow well and may not develop a radish, but be thin and shriveled.
Interplant radishes among other slower-growing plants. Because radishes grow so quickly, they can be planted around other slower-growing vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, and beets. By the time the slower-growing crops require extra room, the radishes have been harvested. Look for empty spaces in your garden, and fill the spots with radishes. Radishes are an excellent companion plants. They draw aphids and other pests away from peppers, squash, and cabbage.
Harvest: Don’t wait to harvest radishes. Picked radishes store well. Cut the greens of radishes, brush off dirt, and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Radishes can be kept this way for 1-3 weeks.
Eating: Sliced radishes are a delicious addition to salads, of course. Shred radishes and add them to slaw. Try chopped radishes in egg salad, potato salad, stir fry, and soups. Radishes are excellent fermented. If you haven’t tried fermenting before, pickled radishes are a great way to learn.
Learn more: How to grow radishes
