Broccoli and kale are super foods and worth their weight in gold. Cabbage/Brassica Family includes Arugala, Bok choi, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, Cress, Horseradish, Kale, Kolhrabi, Mustard Greens, Radishes, Rutabagas, Turnips. In greater Chico area Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cauliflower and Cabbage.

Planting and care tips

Our goal is healthy veggies. The goal is to keep the pests under control so your harvest is not severely damaged or your yield reduced.

Cruciferous vegetables is another name for the Cabbage Family (Brassica) plants.

We don’t expect 100% perfect veggies. We can eat green leafy veggies with a few (caterpillar (cabbage worm) holes as long as we wash them first. A few holes doesn't hurt humans or the plant. But a few holes may not be okay with neighbors and friends who share your harvest.

Biodiversity planting helps control pests. Mixing together many friendly plants (companions) in the same bed masks the scent of the plant that the pest is attracted to. It also helps to grow pest resistant varieties of your favorite veggies.

Companion plants that discourage cabbage worms are catnip, dill, geranium, nasturtium, sage, and thyme. Plants that discourage cabbage loopers are catnip, dill, nasturtium, peppermint, rosemary, sage, spearmint, and thyme.

Companion aromatic plants that repel and block pests are sage, rosemary, thyme, mint and nasturtium. The smell of these herbs and flowers in particular make multiple brassica pests turn the other way.

Get help from the experts on pests from your local botanic garden and state university agricultural extension.

In our experience kale is more resistant to pests than any of the other cabbage family varieties.

The three main brassica pests are flea beetles, aphids, and cabbage worms. Flea beetles are very tiny and hop around like fleas.

An easy first line of defense against pests are crop rotation, biodiversity planting and “floating row cover.” If you still get some caterpillars check our post on Environmental Pest Management.

Floating row cover on all brassicas for the whole season will prevent cabbage moths from laying their eggs on your plants. Floating row cover is a thin white gardening fabric that allows in sunlight and rain. Weight down the fabric edge so the moths can’t fly inside. This only works in a bed that has NOT grown cabbage family veggies last year since the eggs could be in the soil and will hatch into cabbage moths.

Bok choi (Pak choi) is a type of Chinese cabbage. The plant is a member of the brassicae or cruciferae families, also known as mustards, crucifers, or cabbages.

The easiest brassicas to grow are short-season greens like baby kale, mustard greens, or bok choy are the. Sown in early spring or late summer, they will start producing baby greens in just a few weeks and maybe harvested at full size for cooking.

The healthiest cruciferous vegetables may include Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale. Various studies have reported that eating more cruciferous vegetables has several health benefits.

For more tips on planting seeds and seedlings, managing pests and our local Planting Calendar go to our blog posts:

Broccoli growing tips

Broccoli is a sun-loving, cool-season crop that is best grown in the spring or fall. It’s also incredibly healthy, rich in vitamins and minerals, and is a good source of Vitamin A, potassium, folic acid, iron, and fiber.

Broccoli is attacked by multiple pests and diseases in our area. Our main problem is “Club Root.” Many local home gardeners have given up growing broccoli and focus instead on other greens like kale, Swiss chard, Chinese cabbage, Chinese broccoli and Bok Choy. The Deep Roots team is still researching this problem. We suggest growing broccoli in a container with fresh Deep Roots compost. Don’t use tools and gloves that have been used with other soil,

Planting: Broccoli thrives at 65°F to 70°F and is very sensitive to temperature. Plant in early spring when the soil is damp since broccoli will bolt in warm weather and not produce the “floret” (the bushy part). You want the plant to move slowly into seed and have time to give maximum energy to producing the large floret. Plant seedlings (with 4 or 5 leaves) about 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Consult planting locations in our Biodiversity method post.

Care: Keep moist but don’t over water. Provide consistent soil moisture especially in drought conditions (1-1.5 inches of water per week.) Don’t get the heads wet when watering, as it can encourage rot. Roots are very shallow, so try not to disturb the plants. Mulch to suffocate weeds and to help keep soil temperatures down. To promote the growth of a second head after the first has been harvested, maintain watering schedule.

How to harvest broccoli: Harvest broccoli in the morning before it heats up when the buds of the head are firm and tight, just before the heads flower. If you do see yellow petals, harvest immediately, since flowering will decrease quality of florets rapidly. Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks, in some cases, from spring to fall, if your summer isn’t too hot. Also harvest and eat the leaves.

How to store broccoli: Store broccoli in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. If you wash before storing, make sure to dry it thoroughly. Broccoli can be blanched and frozen for up to one year.

Kale growing tips

Seasonal tips: Hearty kale is the most reliable crop of the cabbage gamily – cold-hardy and resilient plant. It will continue to grow through the summer. The flavor changes depending on when you harvest it – mildest in spring, more bitter in hot weather, and sweeter after a frost. We like this video: Growing kale for sowing to harvest

Plant in early spring or late summer for a fall crop. Cool weather brings out the sweet, nutty flavor of this highly nutritious green. Plant seedlings very early in the spring (3 to 5 weeks before the last frost). Since the temperatures can dip below the 20s, have floating row covers on hand so you can cover them on cool nights. Mulch the soil heavily after the first hard freeze in the fall.

Plant 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost for fall. Harvest it from fall until the ground freezes in winter as the flavor sweetens after a couple frosts. You can extend the harvest season with a mini hoop house covered in plastic. Add a row cover fabric resting directly on the plants inside the hoop house.

Kale will grow throughout the summer. But in hot weather it tends to become tough and bitter. For best results, kale should be allowed to mature in cooler weather. Kale tastes best when plants grow rapidly and mature before the heat of summer (before temperatures exceed 75°F) or after fall frosts. We grow kale through the hot weather in the Chicago area.

Watering and mulch: It’s important to keep kale well watered but don’t over water. Water 1 to 1.5 inches each week. Mulch the soil with a layer of compost and a layer of straw to keep down the weeds and keep kale cool.

Harvesting: Kale is ready to harvest when the leaves are about the size of your hand. Start harvesting the oldest leaves first from the lowest section of the plant. Discard any yellowed or torn leaves. Avoid picking the terminal bud (found at the top center of the plant) because this will help to keep the plant productive.

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